REVIEW: Forage, York

When you arrive at Forage in York, down one of the many cobbled lanes in the city centre, you’re greeted by a striking floral gateway.

From the entrance alone, you can tell it’s a restaurant that has been designed to appeal to a certain crowd. 

Thankfully for me, the Instagrammable entrance and woodland vibe in the restaurant itself add to, rather than distract or even detract from, the experience.

We visited Forage on my birthday, last Friday in very early January. A time of the year that isn’t generally associated with great dining experiences. You tend to find the best restaurants are closed for some post-festivities recovery time. Those that are open might be going through the motions.

This wasn’t the case at Forage. Our experience started with a warm welcome (we were greeted by an enthusiastic dog, and staff equally as welcoming), followed by attentive service, and an interesting and inventive menu.

Like so many places, Forage offers small plates. They do so with minimal fuss and no more than a basic explanation of the concept. Two to three dishes per person was the guide, and we went for six between the two of us – it was my birthday after all. 

We mixed the routine with some of the more interesting options – from padron peppers to their take on a doner kebab. 

The former was one of the few that didn’t quite hit the mark. The peppers were served with a piquant sauce and crispy onions, but the peppers themselves lacked both the char and seasoning needed to elevate them from the humble green variety.

The kebab was at the over end of the spectrum, and clearly designed to answer the question, “what would a kebab be like if you made it some bloody good lamb?” The sauces were familiarly kebab-shop-esque, but the perfectly seasoned and spiced meat was from a very different place – perfect proportion of meat to crispy fat, and cooked to perfection. The dish was worth the entry flowers alone.

Our other dishes were nearer the lamb than the peppers. Fresh scallops with beautiful accompaniments; light and spongy bao bun filled with spiced duck; warm, generously topped flatbread.

The final highlight was grilled, crispy halloumi. This was cut thin, and as a result avoided the common pitfall of being overly dense. The crisp edges were topped with a delicious light, sharp dressing. 

We decided against desserts, but I was surprised to receive a birthday plate of bite sized treats and meringues. It was a lovely touch that capped the meal perfectly.

It wasn’t a night for heavy drinking, but I had a decent sangiovese for eight and a half quid that suggested the wine list might be a winner too.

They’re currently running a January offer where you can get 20% off your bill when you book a table. When you took this into account, our meal was a very reasonable £55 plus tip.

We enjoyed our whole experience, and found the service a huge part of their charm. Our waiter Rafal was pleasant and attentive, without us feeling his shadow at our table. When we had a minor issue with the bill, it was handled efficiently and pleasantly. The aforementioned discount was added without fuss. 

The venue also offers a “hidden” speakeasy bar. We wandered up after the meal and enjoyed freshly made cocktails. Again, the menu contained the conventional and some less well known options. Both our choices were well made. My negroni certainly hit the spot. 

Forage aims to be the antithesis to identikit, chain venues, with its eco-conscious, sustainable menu and ethos under head chef Kieran Duffy. It is another business formed from a successful pop-up, which seems to be the best route into a challenging industry right now.

If our experience was anything to go by, they’re on to a winner.